Wheel weights. 12oz

z5099

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Sep 25, 2014
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Hello all,
New member, first post.
I just picked up a new 14 FLHXS about 2 weeks ago and I'm ready for my 1st dealer service. I have a question about wheel weights. My rear has 12 oz stuck on there.
I find this questionable and I'm looking for feed back. anybody else have this much weight on a rim? is this normal or should I be questioning it when at the dealer:confused:
Thanks in advance,
Paul
 
On the tire there will be a paint mark which is the lightest part of the tire. It should be at the valve stem location. If not they need to turn the tire to right position and re balance.
 
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Still have the stock tires on til Saturday morning. Both getting changed. Front has 10- .18oz. weights. 5 on each side. 1.8 ounce total. Rear has 18- .18 oz. weights. 9 on each side. 1.62 ounces total. You sure you have 12 ounces or 12 weights?
 
There are 12 stick-on weights on each side of my rear rim, 24 total.
I thought they where .5 oz each but will double check tonight and also look for the paint mark and valve stem orientation. thanks guys.
 
Ok, a took a better look and this is what I found,
(Qty 12) .5oz weights on each side of rim, located at valve stem.
White paint smudge is located about 90 Deg, from valve stem.
 
The paint mark on the tire is suppose to be at the valve stem. Since it's under warranty and no out of pocket expense you could have HD remove the wheel break the bead loose and slide tire on rim to valve stem and remove all weights and re balance to make sure.
How To Read A Motorcycle Tire:

TIres

It's a rotten feeling. You look down at your tire, and there's no denying that those nice deep grooves have become a shadow of their former selves. It's a goner, and it's getting worse with every mile.

As you look around your local motorcycle shop for a new tire, you see all sorts of letters and words on the sidewalls. Would you believe just about everything you need to know about a tire, including when it was made, is contained there?

It's really not that difficult to decipher the black art of tire designations, and knowing what you've got makes you a well-educated consumer-which is never a bad thing.

Tire size
First off, there's those big numbers and letters that may read something like 130/90 16, or MT90 16. These numbers indicate the size of the tire, and the rim it's designed to go on. In this case, these are both the same size tires.

How can we tell?

Let's start with the first series of numbers, 130/90 16, otherwise known as the metric designation. This is the most popular nomenclature today and it's practically a standard in the automotive world.

Tire sectionThe 130 designates the tire's width in millimeters, measured in a straight line through the tire from one edge of the tire's tread to the other. The second number, 90, is a bit trickier to understand. This represents the aspect ratio between the tire's width and its height, or how tall a tire is in relationship to its width. Simply put, the higher this number is, the taller the tire will be. In this case, the tire is 90 percent as tall as its width, or 117mm.

The last number, 16, is the tire's rim diameter expressed in inches.

The width on some tires may be expressed in inches as well, but usually the aspect ratio is left off.

The other series of numbers and letters, MT90 16, represents the same tire size, but it's expressed in an alphabetical code. M means the tire is designated for motorcycle use, T is the tire width code, 90 is the aspect ratio and 16 is the rim diameter.

Size conversion chart
Front tires Rear tires
Metric Alphanumeric Metric Alphanumeric
80/90 MH90 110/90 MN90
90/90 MJ90 120/80 MP85
100/90 MM90 120/90 MP85
110/90 MN90 130/90 MT90
120/90 MR90 140/90 MU90
130/90 MT90 150/80 MV85


150/90 MV85
The alpha numeric system is the older method for tire sizing. And in the old days, tires just didn't get much bigger than an MV85, which corresponds to a 150mm width. Therefore, newer tires larger than 150mm will only carry the metric sizing designation

Speed and construction
Interspersed with these sizing numbers, you're likely to find other letters that'll appear as such: 160/70VR 16, 170/60R 16V, or in other combinations. These two extra letters indicate speed rating and tire construction.

Each letter in the speed rating notes the maximum speed a tire can sustain under its recommended load capacity. For instance, V is equivalent to a maximum speed of 149 mph. Because this rating system was created in Europe, the increments per letter are in 10 kilometers per hour.

Rating Speed: miles per hour Speed: kilometers per hour
Q 99 mph 160 km/h
S 112 mph 180 km/h
T 118 mph 190 km/h
U 124 mph 200 km/h
H 130 mph 210 km/h
V 149 mph 240 km/h
W 168 mph 270 km/h
Y 186 mph 300 km/h
Z Over 149 mph Over 240 km/h
The next letter, R, indicates the construction used within the tire's casing. R stands for radial construction and B means belted bias.

Load and pressure codes
Tire LoadThe next number or letter you may encounter, after the tire size, is the load index. This is the weight the tire is capable of handling when properly inflated. It's usually expressed in either a numerical code, or a letter code. Most manufacturers will also spell out on the sidewall what that maximum load is so there's no guessing—you'll find it usually listed with the tire's maximum air pressure.

It's good to note here that you should only fill a tire to the motorcycle manufacturer's recommended level. Besides under inflation, one of the biggest mistakes people make with their tires is to overfill them to the maximum level indicated on the sidewall. This leads to poor handling and premature wear. If in doubt, either consult your owner's manual, contact your local dealer, or go to the tire manufacturer's website. Most include the recommended pressure for each motorcycle, along with other tire options. And be sure to measure pressure when the tire is cold. Measuring hot will skew the numbers.

Rotation and balance marks
One of the more critical marks on a motorcycle tire is the rotation arrow, or arrows. Today's specialized tires generally have a tread pattern that must go in only one direction. Some manufacturers even state that their tread patterns are designed to disperse water, and by mounting the tire backwards, they won't work.

The other big reason for noting wheel direction has to do with the manufacturing process. The tread rubber is initially a flat strip that's cut to length, at an angle, and then spliced together with the two ends overlapping, creating a hoop. Under acceleration, a tire mounted backwards will try to peel back this splice. The opposite is true for the front wheel, where directional forces are reversed under hard braking.

Another mark to look for when mounting a tire is a painted balance dot, or dots. Most tires are pre-balanced by the manufacturer. They will then put a mark on the tire indicating where the valve stem should line up.

Born on date, and wear's the tread?
Tire born on dateOther useful information on the tire's sidewall includes its manufacturing date. Look on the side for a raised block with four digits; it's usually next to the U.S. DOT tire identification number. The first two indicate the week of its manufacture, and the last two are for the year. For example, 1702 would indicate the tire was manufactured in April, 2002. Prior to 2000, there were only three digits, with the last one indicating the year.

Some tires may have raised triangles, or the letters TWI, to show where the tire wear indicators are in the tread. When these marks are equal to the tread, it's time for new tires.

Anything else?
Other information on the sidewall is usually spelled out; "tubeless" or "tube type" may be substituted with the letters TL or TT respectively, and the tire ply, composition and materials used may also be spelled out.

7 - Tire Installation (see also Tire Mounting)

Dunlop street tires have balance dots in the bead or sidewall area to indicate the lightest point of the tire. All Dunlop street tires should be installed with these balance dots at the valve. All Dunlop street tires also have arrows on the sidewall, which indicate the correct direction of rotation.
Positioning of balance marks and inclusion of directional arrows are not universal among motorcycle tire manufacturers.

From: http://www.dunlopmotorcycle.com/info-center/care-and-maintenance/


Now you know all you need to know to have an intimate conversation with the black hoops around your rims.
 
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I would take them back and get them rebalanced. This is tire balancing 101. If the installer does not have the dot at the valve stem, they shouldn't be doing the job. Had 2 new tires installed this weekend myself and the dots are where they are supposed to be.
 
Thank you everybody for your input, very helpful. :cool:
It's going in for it's 1k service tomorrow and I'll talk to them about the wheel weights.
"more then wife and I have on both our cars combined" is NFG in my book.
also need them to address
* clutch recall
* banging noise in rear " not the rear fender fascia slapping, I already fixed that with 3M trim tape "
I'll keep ya posted.
 
Thank you everybody for your input, very helpful. :cool:
It's going in for it's 1k service tomorrow and I'll talk to them about the wheel weights.
"more then wife and I have on both our cars combined" is NFG in my book.
also need them to address
* clutch recall
* banging noise in rear " not the rear fender fascia slapping, I already fixed that with 3M trim tape "
I'll keep ya posted.

Can you elaborate on the 3m tape fix. I've read of complaints about the rattling. Not sure I've heard any or not, but, a little extra tape can't hurt.
 
I had a banging / slapping noise coming for the rear end of my bike,
upon inspection " banging on things with my hands" I found the rear fender fascia with the lights in it "2014 FLHXS" was hanging down about 1/8" from the tail of the fender and didn't take much to make it bang, So I removed it and placed a (2) 2" strip of 3m double sided trim tape ( foam kind )on the flap that tucks up behind the fender and re-installed.. Took 10 min. That noise is gone.
 
I had a banging / slapping noise coming for the rear end of my bike,
upon inspection " banging on things with my hands" I found the rear fender fascia with the lights in it "2014 FLHXS" was hanging down about 1/8" from the tail of the fender and didn't take much to make it bang, So I removed it and placed a (2) 2" strip of 3m double sided trim tape ( foam kind )on the flap that tucks up behind the fender and re-installed.. Took 10 min. That noise is gone.

That's what I thought. Thanks.
 
I had a banging / slapping noise coming for the rear end of my bike,
upon inspection " banging on things with my hands" I found the rear fender fascia with the lights in it "2014 FLHXS" was hanging down about 1/8" from the tail of the fender and didn't take much to make it bang, So I removed it and placed a (2) 2" strip of 3m double sided trim tape ( foam kind )on the flap that tucks up behind the fender and re-installed.. Took 10 min. That noise is gone.
I like this idea. Gonna do this to mine before I hit the highway on Friday. Mine doesn't make any noise, but it does have quite a bit of play in it so I'll just button that up quick.

Sent from my EVO using Tapatalk
 


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